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EVER-LUSTRE FINISH 







EDGING BOOKLET N9 65. 
PRICE 25 CENTS 

MERCERIZED 
SIX CORD -HARD TWIST 




MADE IN U.S. A. 



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Eagle's 
Call 

to 
Crochet 



Price twenty-five cents 







Copyrighted 1915, b 




I0IAND 



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DOTION SPECIALISTS" 

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New YORK ♦ ■ • ♦ • CITY 







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©CI.A408531 JUL 16 1916 

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The Eagle In sight of these troublesome days of 
Speaks international turmoil, it doubtless 

seems anomalous to suggest that the 
hook is "mightier than the sword." But unques- 
tionably the hook wields a far more potent 
influence for peace, happiness and beauty — the 
higher and more sacred aims of life — and in this 
respect concededly the hook is "mightier than the 
sword." 

The Wide Nothing in recent years has so 

Call widely attracted the interest and 

attention of women throughout the 

world as the present popularity of crochet work. 

It has invaded every field of human interest 
and endeavor. Women of every nationality, of 
all ages and of every station in life — the busily 
rushed woman as well as the woman of leisure time 
— all are absorbed by the fascinating combination 
of work and recreation found in crochet work. 

The popularity of crochet work is due to many 
causes, but primarily to the fact that while the 
work is of absorbing interest, giving vent to such a 
vast range of artistic expression, it is, at the same 
time, pre-eminently utilitarian. 

For centuries back, women have been engaged 
in the execution of hand-made laces, each century 
showing a marked increase of interest in and 
demand for this character of lace, until, at the 
present time, hand-made laces occupy a distinctly 
unique position in the art world. 

The limitless range of useful and artistic 
articles to which crochet lends itself has made its 
popularity come to stay, and it is destined to 
become more and more extensive every year. 

The Why This little booklet does not purport 
to cover the limitless field of Needle- 
craft endeavor. It is put forth with the intent of 
stimulating the latent creative genius of those 
who have never before endeavored to give expres- 

3 



sion to their artistic tastes through the use of the 
crochet hook. 

With this idea in view the following pages are 
offered in the hope that everyone into whose 
hands this little brochure may fall shall find it 
easy to answer "The Call of the EAGLE to 
Crochet." 

Position Naturally, the first question to 
answer is: "How shall I hold the 
hook?" The correct position for using the hook 
is largely a matter of personal individuality. It 
is like writing — use the position which comes most 
natural for your particular temperament. Position 
shown in cut is commonly conceded to be the 
correct one. 




The work is held between thumb and first 
finger of the left hand — the right hand holding the 
hook lightly, much as one would a pen. The 
working thread should pass over the forefinger of 
the left hand and under the other three fingers. 
The middle finger slightly raised to supply more or 
less pressure and to regulate the tension of the 
thread. 

Let your fingers attain a natural position — 
not cramped or strained — muscles relaxed. 



Abbrevia- Crochet instruction books frequently 
tions use abbreviations throughout. The 

attached list comprises those com- 
monly accepted for crochet work, and will be 
found helpful in connection with this work, as 
well as other books on the subject. 



s space 




sk 


skip 


5/ stitch 




sp 


spoke 


sts stitches 




sps 


spokes 


ch chain 




cl 


cluster 


ch st chain stitch 




m 


mesh 


sc single crochet 




med 


medallion 


dc double crochet 


mtf 


motif 


hdc half double cr 


ochet 


r 


ring 


tc triple or trebl< 


s cro- 


pt 


point 


ct cross treble 


chet 


sec 


section 


lie long treble crochet 


opp 


opposite 


lc long crochet 




sh 


shell 


si st slip stitch 




TO 


round 


P picot 




P. C 


padding crod 


pi picot loop 




tn 


turn 


E. ch Eagle chain stitch 


rtoc 


return to center 


r st roll stitch 




*orrp repeat 


The Start The 


rudim 


entan 


/ crochet stitche 



will be treated in their natural 
order — the most simple first, and the more intri- 
cate following. 

A little patience and close adherence to these 
instructions should enable the most diffident begin- 
ner to master the work without difficulty. 

Thereafter the degree of excellence attained 
depends upon these three factors: Practice — 
creative genius — materials selected. 

Chain Fig. A presents the first and most 

Stitch simple crochet stitch, known as 

Simple Chain Stitch. Thread over 




the needle — twist to form a loop — thread over 
needle again, drawing last loop through first. 

5 



Slip In Fig. B will be found another 

Stitch simple stitch, known as Slip Stitch. 

On a chain — put needle through 




first stitch- 
both loops. 



thread over needle— pull through 



Single Fig. C shows Single Crochet Stitch. 

Crochet On a chain — put needle through first 

stitch, thread over needle — pull 




through — thread over needle again- 
both loops. 



pull through 



Double The next stitch is obviously Double 

Crochet Crochet, shown in Fig. D. On a 

chain — thread over needle first — 




then put needle through work, thread over needle 
again and pull through the work, showing three 
stitches on needle. Thread over needle — pull 
through two loops — thread over needle again, 
drawing it through remaining two loops. 






Half This stitch is shown in Fig. E. 

Double Thread over needle — put needle 

Crochet through work — pull through — - 

thread over needle again — pull 




through the three loops. 

Triple Triple or Treble Crochet will be 

Crochet found illustrated in Fig. F. Having 

one stitch on needle, wind thread 




over needle twice, insert in work, thread over 
needle — pull through, showing four stitches on 
needle. Thread over needle — draw through two 
stitches, over the needle again, through two more 
stitches — thread over needle once more, drawing 
through last two stitches. 

Picot This will be found a very artistic 

and popular stitch. It is much 

used in making Irish Crochet. It is shown in 

Fig. G. Make chain — turn — chain four — catch 




last stitch into first with single crochet stitch — 
skip two or three stitches on long chain and pro- 
ceed as before. 



Mesh 



For Filet Crochet work will be seen 
in Fig. H. Make chain — turn — skip 




seven chain to make a square corner — one double 
crochet into next stitch — chain two — skip two — 
one double crochet. 

Eagle This unique stitch is very popular 

Chain and will be found most useful and 

Stitch ornamental in braids and trimmings 

for children's clothes, etc. It is 




shown in Fig. I. Chain two — put needle through 
first chain — thread over needle — pull through — 
showing two loops on needle — thread over needle 
— pull through both loops — chain one — put needle 
through last loop of preceding row — thread over 
needle — pull through loop) — thread over needle — 
pull through both loops. 



Cross This stitch will be found to be a 

Treble time saver, having the effect of 

Stitch two rows of work. It is principally 

used for seam beading and for run- 
ning tie-ribbons through on lingerie. It is much 
more durable and attractive than the woven 
beading. 

8 



On a foundation chain — thread over needle 
twice — insert needle in the 1 1 st — thread over 
needle — draw through work, showing four stitches 
on needle — thread over needle, draw through two 
loops — thread over needle again — skip one chain 
stitch — insert needle in next chain stitch — thread 
over needle — draw through work — thread over 
needle again — draw through two loops — thread 
over needle — draw through two loops — thread over 
needle — draw through two loops — thread over 
needle — draw through last two loops. Chain two 
■ — thread over needle — insert needle in middle 
stitch of triple crochet — thread over needle — 
draw through work — thread over needle — draw 
through two loops — thread over needle — draw 
through last two loops — chain two — thread over 
needle twice — skip two stitches — insert needle in 
third stitch — Repeat. 

Knot Knot stitch is used when very heavy 

Stitch open-work is desirable. When using 

fine sizes of Ea§t# Htf^li , it 

makes dainty medallions and motifs for handker- 
chiefs, and thin blouses, etc. In the coarser sizes, 
or in colors, it is most effective for babies' caps, 
shawls or scarfs, etc. 

Star Stitch This stitch as well, is used for the 

heavier work, and will be found to 

give very artistic effects in the colored 

Eifllf ©Ktontiet 

Others Puff stitch, Roll stitch, Cluster and 

Pop-corn are other stitches used 
largely for heavy work, such as bed-spreads 
afghans and for motifs, etc., for heavier blouses. 
They are also well adapted for making purses 
and hand-bags. 

Finish It is always most essential in finish- 

ing a piece of crochet work to see 
that the ends are well fastened. Many a hand- 
some article is often spoiled by slovenly loose 
ends, which unravel, or by ripping stitches caused 
by neglect to properly fasten the ends. At the 

9 



completion of your piece, make an extra ch st 
and cut threads so as to leave a one-inch end, and 
draw this end in and out where it does not show, 
until you have used up the end. 

The Hook The best results in crochet work 
depend not only upon the selection 
of the best cotton, but a careful selection of the 
proper size hooks. The average crocheter uses 
only three crochet hooks — fine, coarse, and 
medium. This is a mistake. It is necessary to 
have the correct size needle for the cotton used. 
This is particularly true in Filet crocheting, its 
beauty depending on firm texture and exactness 
of pattern. The following table of sizes to be 

used with ESffe IjNtoirt will be found helpful. 



Size Cotton 1 2 3 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 100 

No. Hook to use 2 3 f 6 7 8 f 9 T % if ft ft if 



I? 



2 3 4 5 6 78 9 ION 1213 14 




Materials To those who put into their work so 
much time and thought — so much of 
their own personality — as women do in crochet 
work, it seems almost superfluous to suggest that 
only the very best materals obtainable should be 
used. Yet there are so many inferior and cheap 
brands offered for crochet consumption — cheap 
not only in price but in quality cheaper yet — that 
we cannot forego this opportunity to urge the 
reader of these pages, with all the insistence we 
can summon, to use only the very best materials 
that money can buy. Cheap stuff, particularly 
for crochet work, is dear at any price. Nothing 
is "good enough" that can be made better. Cro- 
chet Cotton cannot be made better than 



E&irie fihftsut 

JSW) ^^^ 



The Test Not only does the experienced cro- 
cheter know, but even the beginner 
will soon learn that in order to produce results that 
will be lasting in form and beauty, it is essential 
that the thread be of exceeding smoothness, uni- 
form of size throughout, possess elasticity, the 
maximum of tensil strength, and of a twist that 
will not kink or snarl. 

In the manufacture of ESffe '®tifefliRgf , only 
the highest grade of selected Sea Island cot- 
ton is used. This cotton, grown on the border 
islands of the West Indies and on a few of the 
smaller islands off the coast of South Carolina, 
Georgia and Florida, has the longest fibres of any 
cotton grown. This long-staple gives the neces- 
sary strength and firmness to the spun yarns. 
Because of the nature of the soil and climatic 
conditions, Sea Island cotton is susceptible of the 

purest snow-white bleach. Eflflte QriDlEIlfit is 

six-cord — cable-laid — - hard-twist — preventing 
kinks and snarls. Highly mercerized — ELVER- 
LUSTRE FINISH— a laundry-proof finish that 
retains all its lustre after washing. 

Accessories It is well always to have handy a 
pair of small, sharp scissors, also a 
work-bag for holding your tools and materials; 
such a work-bag may be crocheted by your own 
hands, using the coarser numbers of 

Eacfle ©lttorinef » thus making a handy, durable 
and appropriate receptacle for your crochet work. 

Patience There is no "royal road" to crochet 
and success. One cannot read this 

Practice booklet when retiring at night and 
awaken the next morning a finished 
crochet expert. Yet the patient practice of these 
instructions and the exercise of your individual 
ingenuity, should enable anyone to spell 

SUCCESS. 



Edgings These may be used for "a. thousand 
and and one" purposes. So obvious and 

Insertions numerous are their uses that it is 
needless to mention any. Many will 
be found as easy of execution as anything in the 
crocheter's art. On the other hand, they lend 
themselves to the most delicate designs and most 
intricate stitches. 



Plate One Strips for Bed Spread. — First row: 
Ch 28 sts — turn — sk 3 ch — 1 dc in 
fourth ch — six sc in next six ch — sk 1 ch — ch 3 — 
six sc in next six ch — sk 1 ch — ch 3 — six sc in next 
six ch — 2 dc in last 2 ch sts — turn. 




Second row: Ch 3 — 1 dc in dc of first row — 
ch 9 — 1 dc in first sp of first row — turn — six sc 
around half of 9 ch — turn again — ch 5 — 1 sc in 
last sc of first row — ch 3 — 1 sc in second sp — ch 3 
— 1 sc in next sp — chain 5 — 2 dc in dc of first row. 

Third row: Ch 3 — 1 dc in dc of second row — 
six sc in ch of 5 — 1 sc in first hole — ch 3 — 1 sc in 
next hole — six sc in ch of 5 — ch 3 — six sc in next ch 
of 5 — 2 dc in dc of second row. 

Fourth row: Ch 3 — 1 dc in dc of third row — 
ch 5 — 1 sc in last st of the six sc — ch 3 — 1 sc in 
hole — ch 3 — 1 sc in first of next six sc — ch 9 — 1 sc 
in ch of 3 — turn — 6 sc around ch — turn again — 
ch 5 — 2 dc in dc of third row. 

Fifth row: Ch 3 — 1 dc in last dc — ch 5 — 1 sc 
in last st of six sc of fourth row — ch 3 — 1 sc in 
hole — ch 3 — 1 sc in second hole — six sc in first 
half of 9 ch — ch 3 — six sc in last half of 9 ch — 2 dc 
in dc of fourth row. 

12 



laglf ©rdoniMl 



Plate Two Edging. Materials : Eagle %gmp 

30 and No. 10 needle. D into first 
of 5 loops on braid — chain of 4 — d 




into 4th loop — chain of 4 — 4 trebles with 4 chains 
between each 2 chains of 4 — double into second 
loop and so repeat to end of tow. Chain of 4 d 
into top of each loop of former row. Chain of 
3 — 2 picots — chain 3 into the top of each chain of 
former row to make six scallops of picots, then 
3 chains and ss between on both sides. Dc with 
2 chains in each alternate loop of braid, crossing 
over shell with trebles and no chain. Double 
and 2 chain in each double of former row. Repeat 
last row. 

Plate Three Insertion: Make a chain of 30 sts — ■ 

1 double crochet in 4th st of chain 

— 10 dc with 2 ch between making 9 spaces. 

Make middle one of 9 spaces, 4 solid dc 3 open 

spaces, 1 solid, 1 open, 1 solid, 3 open. 2 open 

spaces, 1 solid, 3 open, 1 solid, 2 open. 

One open, 1 solid, 5 open, 1 solid, 1 

open. 2 open, 1 solid, 3 open, 1 solid, 2 open. 3 

open, 1 solid, 1 open, 1 solid, 3 open. 4 open, 

1 solid, 4 open, 9 open. 4 open, 1 solid, 4 open. 3 



>2i* - - - Si« **■ s * **• * % <* ^ - 53*32* - m lit 



13 



open, 12 solid, 3 open. 2 open, 20 solid, 2 open, 
1 open, 1 2 solid, 1 open, 1 2 solid, 1 open. 2 open, 
16 solid, 2 open. 3 open, 12 solid, 3 open. 4 
open, 1 solid, 4 open. 9 open. Repeat from star. 

Plate Four Chain of 12. First row, d into 5th 
stitch of chain, and 2 succeeding d's 
into chain. Chain 3, make 4 treble 




stitches with 2 chains between into 1 1 th stitch of 
chain. 

Second row: Turn — make 2 short stitches- — 
2 chain — 2 short stitches into each space between 
trebles of last row, one close stitch into chain of 
last row — 3 chain — 3 doubles. 

Third row: Chain of 4 — 3 doubles — 5 chain 
into middle space of 4 trebles of former row, mak- 
ing 4 spaces of trebles with 2 chains between, then 
4 trebles into last space of trebles of former row. 

Fourth row: 2 single — 2 chain in each of both 
wheels made by last row. Short stitch into chain 
of last row — chain of 3 — 3 doubles. 

Fifth row : 3 doubles — 5 chain — 4 trebles with 
2 chain between into second picot. 

Sixth row: 2 tight stitches — 2 chain — 2 tight 
stitches in each space of trebles — 1 tight stitch 
in chain of last row — 3 chain — 3 doubles. 

Seventh row: 3 doubles— 5 chain — 4 trebles 
in second picot — 4 trebles in last picot with no 
chain between — 1 tight stitch into 4th picot from 
end of last row. 

Eighth row: 2 short stitches — 2 chain — 2 
short stitches in each of 6 spaces. 



Plate Five First row: Chain of 34. 

Second row: Sc into 30th chain — 
sc for entire row. 



14 






Third row: 5 chain — dc into 3rd sc — 10 dc 
in all — 9 chain — 10 dc — skip over 7 stitches — 2 
chain — 1 dc into last stitch of second row. 

Fourth row: 5 chain — 2 dc into first 2 dc 
of 10 in 3rd row — 2 chain — 2 dc into middle 2 dc 
of 10 — 2 chain — 2 dc into last 2 dc of 10 — 8 
chain. 2 dc into first 2 dc of 10 — 2 chain into 
middle 2 dc of 10 — 2 chain — 2 dc into last 2 dc 
of 10 — 2 chain — 1 dc into middle of chain of 5 at 
end of row. 

Fifth row: 5 chain — 4 dc — 8 chain — 4 dc — 
2 chain — 1 dc into middle of chain of 5. 

Sixth row: 5 chain — 2 dc — 2 chain — 2 dc — 
2 chain — 2 dc — 4 chain — 1 sc, catching chains 
together. 4 chain — 2 dc — 2 chain — 2 dc — 2 chain 
— 2 dc — 2 chain — 1 dc into middle of chain of 5. 

Seventh row: 5 chain — 10 dc — 7 chain — 10 
dc — 2 chain — 1 dc — 5 chain — 10 dc — 7 chain — 
10 dc — 2 chain — 1 dc. 

Eighth row: 5 chain — 1 dc into first of 10 in 
row 7 — 9 chain — 1 dc into last of 10 — 8 dc over 
chain in 1 dc into first of next 10 (10 in all) — 9 
chain — 1 dc into last of 10 — 2 chain — 1 dc. 

Ninth row: 5 chain — 1 dc — 8 chain — 2 dc — 
2 chain — 2 dc— 8 chain — 1 dc — 2 chain — 1 dc. 

Tenth row: 5 chain — 1 dc — 8 chain — 4 dc — 
2 chain — 4 dc — 8 chain — 1 dc — 2 chain — 1 dc. 

Eleventh row: 5 chain — 1 dc — 4 chain — ■ 

1 sc catching chains together — 4 chain— 2 dc — 

2 chain — 2 dc — 2 chain — 2 dc — 4 chain — 1 sc, 
catching chains together — 4 chain — -1 dc — 2 chain 
— 1 dc, etc. — 5 chain — 1 dc — 7 chain. 

15 



Plate Six With E&fle QtifHHgf No. 20 or 

30 and steel crochet hook No. 10. 
Make a chain of 7 into a circle, add 1 3 stitches 
to chain, make dc into 5th stitch at end of chain, 
form other dc side by side with this one in suc- 
cessive st's of chain. Make a chain of 5 lc into 
little circle first made, 2 chain and treble c into 




little circle till there are 4 trebles in circle. Turn 
work in each of 3 spaces left by 4 trebles. Make 

1 s, 1 d, 2 trebles, 1 d, 1 s, 1 close stitch in chain 
of 5, 7 doubles, 2 in chain 5 over last 5 d's at end; 
turn 7 d's over the last 7 and 2 in chain, 2 extra 
each time. Chain of 4, 9 d's. Chain of 5 to 
middle of center of 3 shells, 4 triples with chain of 

2 between each. Turn, in each space between 
triples make 6 stitches as before, single, double, 
triple, double, single, then close stitch down into 
chain of 5. Chain of 3 into chain of 5 with d and 
9 other doubles to end of row. Turn, chain 4, 
make 1 3 d from t, with 2 chains between, each into 
middle of middle shell. 3 shells, as before, of 6 
graduated stitches each, close stitch into chain of 
5, make chain of 3, 15 d st's to end of row. This 
completes the pattern. Next row goes back to 5 
doubles on edge, and next set of shells is crocheted 
into space between stitches 14 and 15. 

Plate Chain of 10 — join ch to make loop. 

Seven First row: 4 ch — 18 tr cr into loop 

(19 uprights in all). 
Second row: 4 ch — turn work — 2 tr cr into 
last 2 of 1 st row — 6 ch — 3 tr cr into next 3 of first 
row — 6 ch — 3 tr cr into next 3 of first row — 6 ch — 

3 tr cr into next 3, and so on to the end of the row, 
ending with 3 tr cr. 

16 




Third row: Turn work — 8 s cr over each ch 
of 6 in second row, skipping right over the top of 
the 3 tr cr each time. After the last 8 scr put 1 scr 
into the last tr cr of second row — 7 ch — then 1 
more s cr into the last tr cr of the second row- 
This loop makes the center of your next fan. 
Do not turn the work until after you have joined 
the loop. Then turn work. 

First row: 4 ch — 18 tr cr into loop — (19 in 
all, counting the ch of 4) — 4 ch — turn. And so on 
exactly the same as first fan. 

Make third fan just the same until the end of 
2nd row; then with 1 s cr join the third fan to the 
1st fan right over the 3 tr cr that are next to the 
ones over which you began your second fan. 
(See illustration). Then turn right back with the 
8 s cr over the 6 ch each time, and so on. 

Each fan after this is joined as this was at 
the end of its second row; the 4th fan joins the 
2nd, the 5th joins the 3rd, and so on. 



Combina- When crochet work is used in com- 
tions bination with Novelty Braid, Rick 

Rack, and Coronation Cord, as 
shown by Plates Eight, Twelve and Fifteen, dis- 
tinctively attractive results are obtained. 

17 



Plate Materials: 

Eight Unfit mutant 

No. 20 and needle No. 10. 

2 d, 2 ch, 2 d into point — 
3 ch, 1 d into next point. 

Second row : 6 graduated 
stitches into each stitch of 3 
and a stitch between each 2 
d's to draw the thread down. 



Plate 

Nine 

No. 20, needle No. 

1 0. Double stitch into point 
of Rick Rack, two more 
doubles at equal distances 
with 2 chain between. From 
lowest d cross over to next 
point without chain between, 
which makes the crossed 
appearance. Three chains 
of three each in spaces at top 
of points, tight stitch to next 
top and so on — on sewing side 
s stitch in point one chain d 
on each side of hollow. 




Second row: All doubles with one chain 
between into each space and into top stitch. 



Plate Ten ttofiB %BkBBBN& No. 30, needle 

No. 10. Make 3 tight sts, holding 
each circle, 5 chain to center of bar, 5 chain to 
next circle with 3 tight sts to hold in place, from 
the center of each bar 3 chain to inner middle of 
loops, 3 chain to lower of bar, 3 chain to middle of 

18 




circle on other side, 3 chain to 5 close sts around 
bottom of circle, repeat from this. On sewing 
side one row of 2 chain and d, leaving 2 sts, one 
row of 2 d's with chain between. 

Plate First row: 3 s cr over each thin 

Eleven part of the Coronation Braid with 

nine chain between each time. 
First row — other side : The same thing, ex- 
cept that the 3 s cr go into the threads of the 




s cr on the other side with nine chain between 
each time. 

Second row — top: 2 s cr into 3 s cr of 1 st row. 
10 ch, 1 s cr into center of ch of 9 (1st row), 8 ch, 
1 s cr into center of next ch of 9 (1st row), 4 ch. 
Take hook out of work. Put needle through 6th 
ch in ch of 10 and also through the middle of the 
ch of 8 and draw the thread at end of last ch of 4 
through all, 6 ch — 2 s cr into 3 s cr of first row, 
1 ch, 1 s cr into center of ch of 9 — 8 ch, 1 s cr into 
center of next ch of 9 — 4 ch. Take hook out of 
work. Put needle through 6th ch in ch of 10 and 
also through the middle of the ch of 8 and draw 

19 



the thread at end of last made ch of 4 through all 
—6 ch, 2 s cr into 3 s cr of first row, and so on. 

Third row — top : 1 d cr into every other stitch 
of second row with a ch of 1 between each time. 

Second row — bottom: 1 s cr into center of 
3 s cr (1st row) — 5 ch, 1 d cr into center of ch of 
9 — 5 ch, 1 d cr between 1 st and 2nd s cr at bottom 
of scallop (1st row) — 5 ch, 1 d cr. between 2nd 
and 3rd s cr at bottom of scallop — 5 ch, 1 d cr into 
center of next ch of 9 — -5 ch, 1 s cr into center of 
3 s cr, 5 ch, 1 d cr into center of ch of 9 — 5 ch, 1 
d cr between 1st and 2nd s cr — at bottom of 
scallop — 5 ch, 1 d cr between 2nd and 3rd 
s cr — 5 ch, 1 d cr into center of ch of 9 — 5 ch, 
1 s cr into center of 3 s cr, and so on. 

Third row — bottom: 1 s cr into s cr of 2nd 
row — 3 ch, 1 s cr into center of ch of 5 — 3ch, 1 d 
cr into center of ch of 5 — 3 ch, picot — 3 ch, 1 tr 
cr into center stitch of ch of 5 at bottom of scallop 
— 3 ch — picot — 3 ch, 1 tr cr into same center — 
3 ch — picot — 3 ch, 1 tr cr into same center — 3 ch — 
picot — 3 ch, 1 tr cr into same center — 3 ch — 
picot — 3 ch, 1 d cr into center of next ch of 5 — 
3 ch — pull the centers of the next two chains of 
5 (in the angle), together and fasten with 1 s cr — 
3 ch, 1 d cr into center of next 5 — 3 ch — picot — 
3 ch, 1 tr cr into center stitch of ch of 5 at bottom 
of scallop — 3 ch — picot — 3 ch, 
1 tr cr into same center — 3 
ch — picot — 3 ch, 1 tr cr 
into same center, etc. 

Plate Materials: 

Twelve Coronation 

Braid, 

No. 20 

and needle No. 1 0. 

Work over thin part of 
braid 5 tight stitches, holding 
braid closely and putting no 
chains between. The same 
on bottom part first row. 

Second row: 3 d's in 
middle stitch of 5 on first row. 

Third row: 3 chs — 
double c into space between 
each of 3 d's on previous row. 

20 




Eagte dWtoros i 



Plate 3 tight sts to hold braid in circles — 

Thirteen 3 chain to middle of bar — 3 chains 
across each way to center of sides. 
Fourttrebles into center of each circle with 2 chain 
between and 2 chain to the joining chain each side. 
In each of the spaces thus made put 2 close sts, 
2 chain, 2 close sts. 




Plate Strips for Bed Spread. 

Fourteen Efljlf (oillOM^ No. 2, needle No. 5 

Chain of 65 — d into 5th stitch of 
chain, another d, as there are 2 d's at each end 
during the whole pattern — 3 chain, leaving 2 on 
first chain — tight st — chain 3 d into third on 
chain — 3 chain — tight stitch into third — 3 chain d 
into third — 3 chain — tight stitch into third 3 ch — ■ 
13 ds into sts of chain below — 3 chain — tight st 
into third 3 chain — 13 ds — 3 chain — tight st 
into 3d — 3 chain double into 3d — 3 chain tight 
st into 3rd — 3 chain — 2 doubles at end. 

Second row: 2 doubles — 4 chain — d into 
double below- — 4 chain into double below — 4 chain 
— 13 doubles — 4 chain — 13 doubles — 4 chain — 
double over double from chain — d over d — 2 doub- 
les at end. 

Third row: 2 doubles at end- — 3 chain — tight 
stitch to spacer — 3 chain d to d — 3 chain — tight 
stitch to space — 3 chain — 7 doubles — 3 chain into 
3 of 13 — 3 chain — double into 7th — 3 chain — 7 
doubles over space — 3 chain — tight stitch into 

21 



3d — 3 chain double into 7th — 3 chain — tight 
stitch into 10th — 3 chain — 7 ds, 3 chain — tight 
st into space — 3 chain — d into d — 3 chain — 
tight st to space — 3 chain — 2 ds. 

Fourth row: 2 ds — 4 chain — d over d — 4 
chain — 7 ds — 4 chain — d over d — 4 chain — 7 ds — 
4 chain — d over d — 4 chain, 7 ds — -4 chain — d over 
d — 4 chain — 2 ds. 

Fifth row: 2 ds, 3 ch tight st to space — 3 ch 
— d to d — 3 ch tight st to space — 3 ch — 7 ds — 3 
ch — tight st to space — 3 ch — double to double — ■ 
3 ch — tight st to space — 3 ch — 7 ds — 3 ch — tight 
st to space — 3 ch — d to d — 3 ch — tight st to space 
—3 ch— 7 ds. 

Sixth row: Same as 4th. 



A dainty design for a plate doily- 
is here shown, Plate 15. Materials 



Plate 
Doily 

to be used: E8gfo'(0tifaHMf , size 

30; Novelty Braid; Linen circle, diameter 5 J 
inches; crochet needle No. 13. 

To make: Roll edge of linen; divide linen 
into four quarters. In three of the quarters put 
21 bars; in the fourth, 22 bars. 

The bars are 2 dc in one hole, 1 ch — 2 more dc. 
Make three rows of this. 

-22- 






Fourth row: Ch 8 and into each of bars. 

Fifth row: Start braid. Chain 4 and start 
with one stitch over the stem of the braid. Ch 4, 
join t&oenter stitch of ch of 8 in fourth row. Ch 
4 over same stem of braid. Ch 4 into next loop 
of 8 in fourth row. Ch 4 into second loop on the 
braid. Ch 4 into next loop fourth row. Ch 8 
into next to the last loop on braid and the second 
following loop on braid. Draw all together. 

Ch 8 back to next loop in fourth row. Ch 4 
into next to the last loop on braid. Ch 4 into 
middle of next chain in fourth row. Ch 4 over 
the stem of the braid. Repeat around to the 
beginning of the braid. Join braid neatly. 

Sixth row: Ch 8 into next to the last loop in 
top of the braid. Ch 8 into stem. Make 8 ch 
four times, each time put into same stem. Ch 8 
into second loop from stem. Ch 8 and take up 
next to the last loop of braid. Draw all together. 

Repeat around 7th row, like the fourth. 
8th row like the 5th. 9th and 10th rows like the 
6th and 7 th. 

Edge : 4 stitches — pearl 4 — 4 stitches into 
next loop. 




23 



Center Same, with three rows braid, dia- 

Piece meter 12 inches, 41 and 42 bars. 

Handker- Section of handkerchief shown in 
chiefs Plate 16 is a beautiful copy in 

crochet of a Honiton Point, hand- 
made lace handkerchief. Instructions for making 
follow : 




Materials : Eagle U^b^rt , size 1 00. About 

4J yards Novelty Braid, (size 60 lace leaves to 
one yard). 

Make 4 motifs before joining. To make motif, 
use 8 leaves of braid. 

First row: Ch 5 and join. 

Second row: Ch 5 — make 7 tc in first row 
(circle), with ch of 2 between each tc — ch 2 — - 
join with sc — thus making 8 spaces. 

Third row: Ch 7 — make 6 tc in each of the 
7 spaces with 3 ch between each group of 3 tc. 
In the 8th s make 3 tc — ch 3 — then 2 tc in 8th 
s — join with one sc. 

Fourth row: Ch 2 — one sc in chain of 5 ot 
first mtf- — ch 2 — one sc in second p of lace leaf — - 
ch 2 — one sc in first ch of 3 of 3rd row — ch 2 — 
1 sc in next to last p — ch 2 — 1 sc in ch of 3 of 3rd 
row. Repeat to end of mtf. After making 4 
motifs join as follows: 

24 




On right side of first mtf — 1 sc in first p of lace 
leaf — chain 5 — 1 sc in middle p — ch 5 — 1 sc in last 
p — ch 7 — 1 sc in first p of next leaf — chain 1 7 — 
1 sc in middle p — ch 8 — 1 sc in middle of ch of 1 7 — 
(beginning the web), ch 8 — 1 sc in last p — ch 7 — 
1 sc in first p of next leaf — ch 5 — 1 sc in middle p — 
ch 5 — 1 sc in last p — ch 3. 

Place second mtf on first, wrong sides together, 
leaves matching — I sc in first p of second mtf— 
ch 2 — 1 sc in chain of 5 of first mtf — ch 2 — 1 sc 
in middle p of second mtf — ch 2 — one sc in chain 
of 5 of 1st mtf — ch 2 — 1 sc in last p of 2nd mtf — 
ch 3— 1 sc in ch of 7 of first mtf — ch 3 — 1 sc in 
first p of second leaf of second mtf — ch 8 — 1 sc 
in center of web, catching to cl of 8 chs — ch 8 
— 1 sc in middle p — ch 8 — r to c of web — ch 8 — 1 
sc in last p — ch 7 — 1 sc in first p of 3rd leaf of 
second mtf — ch 5 — 1 sc in middle p — ch 5 — 1 sc 
in last p — ch 3, and repeat from beginning. 




Plate Border for Bed Spread. 

Eighteen Ea00 Qnlmrmt No. 1, needle No. 2. 
First row: Chain of 36 sts. 

In fifth of chain make dc then chain of four 
dc into fourth of chain for entire row — 2 dc at 
end where border is to be sewed on for the entire 
pattern — 7 spaces on first row. 

25 




Second row: Chain of four — 2 chain ss into 
middle of first space — 2 chain dc into dc of first 
row, so on to end of row. 

Third row: 2 dcs chain of four and dc into 
each dc of 2nd row. 

Fourth row: Same as second row till end, 
where an extra chain of 9 is made and a picot of 
3 s left on end. 

Fifth row: Like second row, only one extra 
space — now 8 spaces. 

Sixth row — Picot left on edge over 4th and 5th 
spaces. Solid ds 13 of them rest of spaces, same 
as 1st and 3rd rows. 

Seventh row: Picot added at edge 4 spaces 
13 ds over last rows ds — 3 spaces and 2 ds as 
before. 

Eighth row: Like 2nd row — 3 d space — - 
7 ds at end of 13 ds — 7 ds over the space next — 
rest of row same as 2nd, except extra picot made 
at end. 

Ninth row: 4 spaces, no extra picot on edge. 
5th spaces — 7 ds — 2 spaces — -7 ds — 2 spaces — 2 ds. 

Tenth row: Straight at edge of 9th row over 
last 7 ds make 7ds, over next 7ds, 7ds same to end. 

Eleventh row: 2 ds — 2 spaces — 7 ds— 2 
spaces — 7 ds — 3 spaces. 

26 



Twelfth row: Same as 2nd row, but 13 d's 
over 2 center spaces. 

Thirteenth row: Same as 1st row, only 13 d's 
over 1 3 d's and 3 spaces at end. 

Fourteenth row: Like 2nd row. 

Fifteenth row: Leave off one space at out- 
side, 7 spaces and 2 d's . 

Sixteenth row: Like 2nd row. 

Seventeenth row: Like 1st row, 7 spaces, 
2 d's. 

Then pattern is repeated, this finishing first 
point. 

Filet Of all crochet work, among the most 

fascinating and beautiful is filet. 
It offers the widest possible opportunity for the 
adaptation of one's personal genius and the indivi- 
dual touch, which lends such enchantment to the 
products of needlecraft. When properly made, 
filet crochet work is every whit as artistic as the 
real filet work, with its quaint design and wonder- 
ful mesh, and has the additional advantage of 
being far more durable. 

One of the most charming features of filet 
crochet is its simplicity of execution. No special 
knowledge of the art — no long years of training 
and experience — are necessary in this work. The 
beginner can do quite as well as the expert. Let 
it be always remembered that it is not more diffi- 
cult to do perfect work, but that it requires more 
care. In this particular class of work it is most 
essential that only the best materials are used, 
for evenness of thread and freedom from knots and 
kinks will go far to produce the perfect article. 

Two stitches only are required for the mesh. 
Double crochet and chain stitch. Even the begin- 
ner knows these stitches, and if not already known, 
the instructions contained in this booklet will 
enable even the unpracticed to show the best 
results. 

In starting filet work, it is advisable to begin 
the chain rather loose, as in working rows which 

27 



are made almost entirely of holes it is better to 
make the chain stitches looser than in those rows 
which are solid. This tends to give your work a 
more even effect. Usually the edges are finished 
with single crochet, but sometimes in shaped 
pieces, where it is necessary to go from one point 
to another, the slip stitch is employed. Refer to 
subject "Mesh," Fig. H., page 8. 

For Filet Crochet work select as fine a hook 
as can be used without splitting the threads. 

Plate A handsome illustration of this work 

Nineteen is shown by the dainty P F C Towel. 
Your own initials or monogram on 
your guest towels lend a delightful cheer to your 
guest chamber. 



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Plate Bread-Tray and Cake-Tray Mats 

Twenty and Doilies are most artistically 

made in crochet work, and will be 
found useful and ornamental. A design for the 
former is suggested in this Plate 20. 

28 



Irish Genuine Irish lace, so dear to every 

Crochet feminine heart, as its name implies, 

originated in Ireland, but is now 
largely made also in France, Germany, Switzer- 
land and other countries, as well as in our own. 
When the genuine can be obtained, no form of lace 
is more beautiful or desirable. The excessive 
cost, however, of genuine Irish lace is prohibitive 
to the great majority of lace-loving women. 
Moreover, much of the so-called Irish lace pur- 



29 



chased nowadays has been so washed and starched 
up to produce the appearance of firmness, which it 
does not really possess, that it is not worthy to be 
called Irish. Because of these two reasons, there- 
fore, the excessive cost of genuine Irish lace, and 
the many inferior imitations, Irish crochet lace 
has grown to be one of the most popular products 
of the hook. It continues rapidly to grow in 
appreciation and demand and in breadth of motifs. 
It is at once the most handsome and the most 
difficult to execute. It requires infinite patience. 
The best specimens are samples of art as well as 
skill, and are those which show the individual 
creative genius. 

At the present time, Irish crochet is made in 
three distinct styles — slightly padded, heavily 
padded, and no padding. The heavily padded is 
considered to be the most desirable and the more 
valuable, and well worth the additional time and 
trouble necessary to produce it. 

It has the distinctive advantage over every 
other kind of hand-made lace, in that it can be 
taken apart, the motifs separated and altered into 
new shapes and forms as fashion or caprice may 
dictate, while still preserving the original motif. 

In this booklet no attempt is made to give 
instructions in Irish Corchet work, that being a 
distinct subject which will be treated of in other 
booklets. It is simply suggested to those who 
do Irish Crochet work that because of the severe 
requirements of the cotton used in this work, it 
will not be possible to find a cotton better suited 

to Irish Crochet than Eadft Qtf* 



Padding It is often desirable, especially in 
Cord Irish Crochet work to obtain heavier 

effects, and the work is then done 
over padding cord, which may either be one very 
heavy thread or several strands of smaller size 
thread twisted together, producing the desired 
size. The latter is preferable because padding 
made of several strands is somewhat more flexible 
than when made of only one heavy strand. 

30 



Medallions Limitless is the possibility for artis- 
tic effects in the production of 
crocheted medallions. The two specimens fol- 
lowing are simply suggestions for medallion work. 





Table Mats Table Mats are indispensable to 
every housewife and lover of beauti- 
ful table-ware. When made of Eacflc? 0ly\)nltef 



the beautiful mercerized finish makes a very 
pleasing combination against the Damask cloth. 
For these articles use the very coarse sizes, which 
work up into thicker mats, and help to keep the 
heat of the dishes away from the table. 

31 



Venetian or Venetian work, often called "Mao 
Macrame rame" Crochet, is justly popular 
for many articles of utility, inas- 
much as it works up very quickly, and because the 
coarser yarns are used, is not so trying to the eyes. 
In addition, it is extremely serviceable, and 
when the best quality of crochet cotton is used 
and the attractive patterns selected, handsome 
and artistic results are obtained. 

Colors To those who love the intertwining 

of form and color in art, and who 

have never attempted to produce this effect with 

the crochet hook, it is suggested that they write 

for size and color card of B900 flrftollllSf Colors. 

These colors are made in two sizes: Size 30, 
and "PETITE" laglill^tatf size 70. The 
beautiful effects obtainable through the combina- 
tions of these colors in crochet work is not duly 
appreciated until you have seen the result of your 
own handiwork with the hook. 

There is no other "Made in America" line of 
colors so delicate, so brilliant, and so lasting, as 
those of liaglf (plXioniiel in size 3U, and r 1. 1 1 1 tL 
EAGLE size 70. There is no better quality made 
anywhere. 



CORONATION CORD 
32 



Pressing When pressing laces or crochet work, 
always be particular that it is cor- 
rectly done. Lay the article face downward upon 
a soft, thick ironing flannel, or a soft Turkish bath 
towel will answer admirably. Cover smoothly 
with a slightly moistened clean cloth, which has 
previously been dipped in tepid water, into which 
a little borax has been dissolved, and then wrung 
out nearly dry. Press with moderately heated 
iron (not too hot) until thoroughly dry. 




RICK RACK 



33 



Stiffening (a) First make a syrup by taking 
one cup of sugar and one-third cup 
boiling water. Boil together for from five to ten 
minutes. Then form the article over a mould of 
whatever shape desired and apply the stiffening 
syrup while hot, with an ordinary finger brush, 
and let this dry on the mould for about twenty- 
four hours. Thereafter use an ordinary stiff 
hand-brush, dipped in boiling water and remove 
small particles, such as sugar granules, which 
may adhere to the article. Let this stand for 
about twenty-four hours more. Ordinary tem- 
perature heat will not then affect articles so 
treated, and they will be found to retain a clean, 
white appearance. Should the articles so treated 
become soiled, they may be soaked in boiling 
water to remove this stiffening, and retreated in 
the same manner. 

(b) When it is not desired to relaunder such 
articles, satisfactory results are obtained by using 
a thin white or yellow shellac. Apply with an 
ordinary small paint brush ; thereafter each special 
part or figure may be either gilded or tinted with 
silver or other colors. 

(c) A solution may be used made of two ounces 
of clear sheet gelatine, white (obtainable at any 
drug store), dissolve in one pint hot water and 
strained through a medium fine cloth, keeping the 
solution hot, though not boiling. Then dip the 
article in this solution, wrap it in a clean cloth and 
squeeze out the surplus liquid. Form article into 
shape desired and let stand until thoroughly dry. 




NOVELTY BRAID 
34 



HAND BAG 











LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 145 320 8 • 




